Buying Telescopic Duster Poles – 4 Tips & Things To Know - Extentool
Buying Telescopic Duster Poles – 4 Tips & Things To Know - Extentool
Telescopic duster poles are essential tools for cleaning hard-to-reach areas like ceilings, fans, and high shelves. With their adjustable length and ease of use, they provide the flexibility and efficiency needed for maintaining cleanliness in both homes and offices. However, before purchasing one, there are several important factors to consider. Here are 4 tips and things you need to know when buying telescopic duster poles.
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1. Consider the Length and Reach of the Pole
One of the most critical factors to consider is the length of the telescopic duster pole. The purpose of these poles is to help you clean areas that are difficult to reach. Measure the height of the spaces you intend to clean to ensure the pole can extend far enough. Telescopic poles typically come in a range of lengths, with some extending as far as 20 feet or more. If you're primarily cleaning indoors, a shorter pole (around 10-12 feet) may suffice. For outdoor use, such as dusting high windows, a longer pole would be more appropriate.
Telescopic Duster Pole
2. Check the Pole's Material for Durability
The durability of the telescopic duster pole is determined by the material it is made from. Common materials include aluminum, fiberglass, and stainless steel. Aluminum poles are lightweight and easy to maneuver, making them ideal for frequent indoor use. Fiberglass poles are stronger and more rigid, often preferred for heavy-duty tasks or outdoor cleaning. Stainless steel poles are durable but may be heavier, which can lead to fatigue if used for extended periods. Make sure to choose a material that aligns with the frequency and type of cleaning you’ll be doing.
3. Ensure the Duster Head is Versatile
Another key consideration is the versatility of the duster head. Many telescopic duster poles come with interchangeable heads, allowing you to switch between different cleaning tools, such as microfiber dusters, ceiling fan dusters, and cobweb removers. Microfiber is an excellent choice for dusting because it effectively traps dust without scattering it. Also, check if the duster head is washable and reusable to reduce the need for constant replacements. A versatile duster head will save you both time and money, making your cleaning routine more efficient. The Extentool chenile duster made of chenille,its advantage is anti-static,can easily and quickly absorb dust, hair and spider webs on lighting, ceiling fans, ceilings,windows, keyboards, bookcases,etc.For easy cleaning,it can be bent into various angles you need.
Extendable Microfiber Feather Duster with Telescopic Pole
4. Look for Comfort and Grip
Comfort is crucial, especially when using a telescopic duster pole for extended periods. Many poles come with ergonomic handles that make them easier to hold and use for long cleaning sessions. Look for features like a foam or rubber grip to prevent slipping and reduce hand strain. Additionally, ensure the pole is lightweight to minimize the risk of fatigue while cleaning high areas. A well-designed pole with good grip and lightweight construction can make a significant difference in the overall experience.
Extendable Microfiber Feather Duster with Telescopic Pole
FAQs about Buying Telescopic Duster Poles
Q1: How long should a telescopic duster pole be?
A: The length you need depends on the height of the areas you want to clean. For indoor use, a pole that extends to around 10-12 feet should be sufficient. For outdoor use or very high ceilings, consider poles that can extend up to 20 feet or more.
Q2: What is the best material for a telescopic duster pole?
A: Aluminum is lightweight and suitable for indoor use, while fiberglass offers more strength for heavy-duty cleaning. Stainless steel is durable but can be heavier, so it’s best for shorter cleaning sessions.
Q3: Can I replace the duster head on a telescopic pole?
A: Yes, many telescopic duster poles come with interchangeable heads, allowing you to switch between different cleaning tools. Look for poles with versatile attachments like microfiber dusters, ceiling fan brushes, and cobweb removers.
Q4: How do I clean the duster head?
A: Most microfiber duster heads are machine washable. Simply remove the head, wash it according to the manufacturer's instructions, and reuse it for future cleaning tasks. Washable heads help reduce waste and save money on replacements.
In conclusion, when purchasing a telescopic duster pole, it's important to consider the length, material, versatility of the duster head, and overall comfort. By keeping these tips in mind, you can find a reliable and efficient cleaning tool that makes dusting high and hard-to-reach areas a breeze.
Telescopic poles - what do you use? - Page 2 - Antennas
Seen many a party strapping there poles to what ever,s about But you still have to be with in a certain distance of the sota point do note.
AT moment am building a system to use a 8m pole thats either 9m wire on it as vertical or change it to a 1/2 wave 40mb wire that will run up the pole 9m and then the rest of the 13m away with 1/4 wave counter poise via home made Unun like in shape of a bent L but the L on its side. Be more Hoz antenna then.
But either way will be putting on a point about 5m up pole to allow to attach at least 3 guy wires and your right the sota beams do have some very interesting stuff. Me just wanna built it myself sort of thing.
You find your feet, plenty peeps on here wiling to help with there experiences of being out on the mountains yet to do myself yet as only still a chaser.
Karl
Perhaps, but this is a much better product then your standard 10m FP. It is actually made out of GRP rather then a carbon composite material, which isn’t necessarily a good idea with RF although not completely disastrous, you will find many of the 10m poles are in-fact some sort of carbon composite.
As with any of this stuff; you have to find out what works for YOU, this is one of the common topics which most will have an opinion on. Unfortunately one size does not fit all, I actually use a combination of three poles to get the best in place for the particular activation. Although the one above is a clear winner as its tall, and you can fit it in your back-pack being compact, which means your hands are free - which is a massive bonus when taking on bigger mountains.
For a mount I use the bottom end from a Jabsco marine toilet outtake and attach three nylon cords to three large tent pegs - works a treat and its totally free standing.
Jonathan.
G1YBB de G4OBK
Buy a 5m or 6m travel pole is my suggestion. They fold down to just 57cm and are quite strong. I covered the base section on the three I have with large diameter shrink sleeving to prevent abrasion to the composite material. I have used these to support link inverted vee dipoles and a 2m sleeve / wire vertical. Only one outlet sells them. Wrong to advertise on the firms behalf though - so search them out yourself on auction sites etc.
If you use a decent sized rucksack the travel size poles stops questions (some can be sarcastic) from other walkers as they cannot see the pole in your sack. These will also easily fit inside a suitcase for taking on a plane. I find a 5m long pole is high enough for 30m bands up. A 6m one is preferred for 40m and up. Make sure you drill the end cap and fasten it to the mast with cord or you will lose it whilst climbing / descending. In my case the cord is shrunk down against the mast by shrink sleeving.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of Telescopic Poles. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
When are finally planning your activation? Get in there while the weather is good - less to go wrong. .
Many man hours have been spent giving you ideas to several queries, so I hope you are successful…
Have you ever done any fellwalking before by the way and used map/compass/GPS or are you going for easier more accessible summits?
Now I am asking the questions! We’re a friendly lot on here and are always interested to see how newbies get on when they are starting out doing SOTA.
73 Phil
Joining this conversation late, but I hope my input will be useful.
Johnathan, that 10m compact-light-weight mast is the same product as DX-Wire sell as their 10m mini-mast. I have one of these and I am hitting the problem that G4OIG mentioned - I have an older 6m mast (that if I remember correctly cost €25 or so from Friedrichshafen in ), and although I usually pack both the 10m and the 6m mast in the car, it’s the 6m one that gets carried up to the summit as it is somewhat lighter. When I have carried the 10m mast, often I have only been able to erect it to 6m high in any case because of wind or lack of supports. So I’d say a 6 or 7m mast is probably the best compromise for a SOTA activation. Neither of these poles would support a yagi, I’m talking purely HF Inverted-V either the UL-404 from Aerial-51 or the Sotabeams linked dipole.
As you get to the longer masts (10, 12.5m etc), the lightweight ones have an additional problem that they bend over a lot at the top, even with a relatively light load on them. One trick if you are looking for a mast that can support your Yagi at a reasonable height is to look at a longer mast and remove to top sections (just unscrew the cap on the bottom and take them out). This way the top section is a larger diameter and hence somewhat stronger. If your 6m / 4m / 2m or 70cm Yagi is of any size though, the fishing pole is not the answer for you, probably better looking for a different antenna for VHF/UHF - J-Pole for example.
73 Ed.
I do use it at its full 10m, the secret to holding a wire up that high is to support it at fixed intervals up the pole. It really works well then - and it can take a beating in the Welsh winds. Dipoles are better supported further down, but you have the height for a vertical with the 10m pole which you can always leave sections out of it to support a Yagi. I have mine working perfectly now, but I really got frustrated with prior configurations with older poles.
Yes it is the same as the DX-Wire pole - however it does not make sense to order it abroad if you are in the UK. Its a very reasonable buy from SOTABeams, plus you get a cool bag as well.
Its all in the knack of using it really, as someone once said. Anyway important thing is to get up there and try it out then you will know for yourself…
Jonathan
Thanks for all the input, too many to reply to on the .
Yes appreciating all the help and advice.
In answer to your question, I’m pretty experienced in the hills. I regularly go out in all weather, and all seasons. I can rock climb, though only scrambled for some time now so grade would be down to a VD or HVD now probably leading. I have also free climbed some of the easier winter climbs on the north Face of Ben Nevis, and general winter walking in Scotland and other parky places. I have done a couple of 14,000ers in the states and been to the alps.
A few have suggested what I had in mind which was a larger pole with top sections taken out, to save weight and to have a stiffer mast.
I may get two just in case, smaller lighter one.
Guying is what I am used to, as said above, our 60 foot steel and scaffold mast was solely held up by guys. That said, strapping to fence posts and other options sounds good.
I like the idea of guying a smaller support first and using that too.
I always use trekking poles too, so have the option of utilising them.
Time for some shopping, and also antenna making. And get up on the hills!
That’s good question Steve that gets answered in 2 sections, one answer is the pragmatic “how to” answer and the other one is with my Management Team hat on.
It’s important to remember that what you and me and everyone else reading here finds attractive or interesting about antennas and radio may not be held by anybody else who happens across a SOTA activation in the countryside. That means being considerate with the size and scale of any antennas you rig and the length of time spent at a summit. There’s no hard rule saying how big or how long you can stay, use your common sense! This section of the rules is the important bit.
“Activators must operate with due consideration for other people and wildlife on the hills.
Excessive noise, inconsiderate siting of equipment and antennas, etc. is not acceptable and
potentially brings the Programme into disrepute.”
So if you find a summit with a wind shelter, seating and trig point and you set up a 10m high antenna complete with guying, then commandeer the seating with your station and extra gear and operate for 8 hours to the exclusion of all the other walkers who arrive at the summit, then you are not being considerate. These people they may not comment to the activator but they have contacted the MT in the past.
OK, with the heavy “use your common sense” bit out of the way, what about trigs and fences. Well if you visit a summit that really is seldom visited by anyone walkers or SOTA activators, then trigs are fair game. But if it’s popular you want to setup as far away from the other visitors as feasible (remember the WAB trig award distance and SOTA AZ rules).
Trigs can be used in 2 ways, either the centre hole is available or by lashing to the pillar itself. Many trigs have succumbed to have their centre cap stolen. (You need a BA set of Allen keys, WD40 and a special tool for loosening off the centre cap!) and if you are lucky the centre will not have been stuffed with stones or drinks cans and you can insert your antenna support. Use something to protect the pole from rubbing on the metal and damaging itself.
Lashing to the trig has problems. In England and Wales, the trigs are the classic Hotine Pyramid shape, a truncated pyramid. The problem is when you lean a pole against one side it doesn’t end up vertical. Not an issue if you hang a dipole or such from it for HF. Not really a problem for a vertical either. The bigger issue is trying to get the lashing tight as it tends to ride up the decreasing circumference as the pole moves in the wind. It can be done but is fidly. Paul G4MD (and others) made a trig point wedge that goes between the concrete and the pole to make the pole vertical and lashing work better as the ropes etc. don’t ride up. But it’s something extra to pack, carry and take up space. In Scotland we have a number of Vanessa Cyclinders which have constant circumference and so don’t have this problem.
I’ve been primarily and HF SOTA activator and fences are much more useful. Lashing to a fence post is easy (practice this wearing gloves) and having several runs of fence wire under a 60m/40m sloping V does improve the NVIS performance. If there is a fence I will use it no matter which when the dipole ends up pointing. If there’s no fence and I guy the support, I try to aim the main lobe of the dipole East of South. A low 60m/40m inverted-V is quite omnidirectional TBH, but the 30m option is noticeably directional.
So yes you can use what you find at the summit to support antennas but don’t use them if you will interfere with other visitors enjoyment. Whenever I have been using the trig and others have arrived at the summit I have offered to stop operating or move. Nobody has ever asked me to do so but I always give them chance to comment.
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