Fastening screws is one of the common jobs in manufacturing plants, but using manual screwdrivers would cause fatigue in many operators.  This would eventually lead to costly mistakes that would have to be corrected.  This is where the electric screwdriver shines.  Electric screwdrivers provide plenty of advantages including increased power, precision and compact size with improved handling.

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There are two different types of screwdrivers: brushless and brushed.  We covered the differences brushed and brushless screwdrivers in a previous article. The main difference between the tools is that brushed screwdrivers utilize a carbon brush that helps to create the electricity within the screwdriver.

Brushless Screwdrivers, as it says in the name, do not use brushes.  This gives an advantage to brushless screwdrivers, as they produce less friction and heat creates less wear and tear on the machine giving it a longer lifespan.  This makes it a great choice for high volume production lines.

Here are the steps for using a plug-in brushless electric screwdriver:

How to use an Electric Screwdriver

1. Prepare Your Setup

Securely connect the power tool cable to both screwdriver and transformer.  Establish a firm connection to avoid interruptions during use.

2. Power Up The Transformer

Turn on the transformer, plug the transformer power cord into the appropriate socket on the back of the screwdriver. Plug the other end of the power cord into a reliable power outlet.

3. Check the Power Indicator

Ensure that the power indicator is turned on. If the indicator light is off, be sure that the transformer’s power switch is set to “on”.

4. Choose and Attach your Bit

Choose the correct screwdriver bit for your application, and ensure that

5. Adjust Torque Settings

To increase the torque, locate the adjustment nut and turn it clockwise. For the reverse, turn it counterclockwise. Accurate results, test the adjusted torque using a reliable torque-testing system.

6. Test Rotation and Operation

Turn the driver on to ensure proper rotation.  Lever start tools, gently squeeze the lever to engage the tool. Push-to-start models, apply light downward pressure on the tool’s nose

7. Reverse Operation for removal

To remove screws, flip the switch to reverse mode and apply gentle pressure to unscrew.

Benefits of Brushless Screwdrivers

-Energy Efficiency

As mentioned earlier, choosing to use Brushless Screwdrivers on your assembly lines helps to provide more power without the wasted energy. Brushless motors operate through electronic commutation, unlike brushed motor screwdrivers which transfer electricity through physical contact of carbon brushes. This difference in design reduces energy loss and makes them more power-efficient.

Why it matters in manufacturing:

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• Brushless motors consume a lot less power – brushless motors convert more electrical energy into me
• Less wasted energy means longer battery life – for cordless screwdrivers with torque control, this mean longer usage without swapping batteries and a lot less downtime
• Consistent power at all rpm – compared to its brushed counterpart, which experience power fluctuations, brushless motors maintain a steady torque output across different RPMs.

-Consistency & repeatability

Brushless motors offer advanced electronic control, which allows better torque accuracy and repeatable fastening. This is critical for preventing product failures.

Why it matters in Manufacturing:

• minimized torque drift – brushed motors experience torque loss over time due to the deteriorating brushes per use, but brushless motors maintain consistent torque output
• Better fastener integrity – inaccurate torque can strip screws or leave the loose, leading to inevitable defects. Brushless screwdriver provide more accurate and repeatable fastening.
• integration with smart systems – many brushless models can be integrated with torque tracking and data logging, ensuring full traceability in applications

-Low maintenance

Because of the elimination of carbon brushes, brushless screwdrivers experience less wear and tear, which means they experience fewer breakdowns and lower maintenance costs.

Why it matters in manufacturing:

• No Carbon Brush replacements – brushless motors do away with frequent brush replacements, reducing downtime needed to maintain the tools.
• less heat buildup – brushless motors generate less internal friction, reducing the risk of overheating which can degrade components over time.
• High duty cycles – because there is less heat buildup, the brushless tools run cooler and can operate without needing cool-down periods, increasing productivity

Common Mistakes and Best Solutions for Electric Screwdrivers

1. Using Too Much Torque (Over-Tightening Fasteners)

The mistake: In the world of fastening, many operators assume that “tighter is better”, but there are many serious issues that this can cause:

• stripped screw heads – too much torque to the screw heads can cause the screw heads to wear down or round out the screw head making it impossible to remove
• thread damage – over tightening can strip the threads inside a hole or deform them, reducing the strength of the fastener
• material deformation – over torquing on workpieces like electronics, plastics, or aluminum can cause the pieces to deform
• weakened assemblies – if torque is not controlled properly, parts may become structurally weaker over time.

Solution: Proper torque adjustment & Control

The solution to combating over-tightening issues can be a combination of a few different things:

1. Use a Torque Tester for Verification – when precision becomes a critical part of the application, use a torque tester to validate your settings.

• torque analyzers allow you to calibrate your electric screwdrivers to confirm that they are consistently delivering the correct force
• testing on sample materials before production to ensure that the current torque setting does not cause damage.
• schedule regular maintenance checks to ensure accuracy of the screwdriver, this is an important step, especially in high-volume manufacturing

2. Use a screwdriver with a precision shut-off clutch – using a precision shut-off clutch is highly recommended to prevent over-tightening.

• automatic shut-off feature – stops the screwdriver once the pre-set torque is reach, ensuring uniform fastening
• reduces operator error – operators don’t manually control the force, which helps to reduce wrist strain and increasing efficiency.

2. Not Calibrating the Screwdriver before Precision Work

The Mistake: forgoing torque calibrations can cause a number of different issues with products, including: inconsistent fastening results, loose screws, or critical product failures.

Torque settings on screwdrivers are designed to ensure consistent torque through every tightening process. Electric screwdrivers will go through a process of normal wear and tear and cause the driver’s torque accuracy to drift over time. This could lead to issues such as under-tightening and over-tightening as mentioned previously.

Solution:

1. Use a Torque Tester – torque testers are essential to measuring the actual output of the screwdriver.

• attach the screwdriver to the torque tester and run it for several cycles
• compare the results to the intended torque setting
• at the first sign of any deviation, then adjust the torque setting appropriately

2. Set Up a Regular Calibration Schedule

Electric screwdrivers used in high production assembly require frequent testing and calibration to maintain its accuracy and precision. The best practice is to follow a weekly or monthly verification.

• for high-volume production, weekly calibration should suffice
• moderate usage, monthly or even bi-weekly calibration
• for occasional use every 3-6 months

3. Verify Torque before Critical Work

For high-precision applications, it is always a good idea to test your screwdriver on a torque verification tool before assembly begins

4. Consider Digital Torque-Controlled Screwdrivers

For manufacturers that need high repeatability, transducerized torque Screwdrivers provide real-time torque monitoring. These tools can store multiple torque settings and ensure consistency.

Checkout our article on the Top 5 Best Electric Screwdrivers from Delta Regis.

Are you ready to upgrade your assembly processes?

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If you want to learn more, please visit our website Torque Electric Screwdriver.

My Bosch cordless electric drill came with two 2 inch combo (Phillips/slotted) bits. One of two things about the drill I didn't like (everything else I love - it's a super drill). The bits got chunged up pretty easily.

Do all bits wear quickly? What are your guys favorite screwdriver bits for electric drills? Ideally, I'd like the kind that are about 5 inches long, made from hex stock, so that I could chuck the bits directly and tighten screws without having to get the drill so close to the work. And of course, it would be best if they wore like hardened tool steel.

As good as all top brand names are good. The cheap ones are cheap for a reason. What does surprise me is the "Phillips/slotted" as I can't even remember the last time I used a slotted bit. Even Phillips are becoming a thing of the past and Torx is by far the best.

Gordon

As good as all top brand names are good. The cheap ones are cheap for a reason. What does surprise me is the "Phillips/slotted" as I can't even remember the last time I used a slotted bit. Even Phillips are becoming a thing of the past and Torx is by far the best.
Gordon

What was weird for me Gordon, was that the bit that got chunged up rapidly came with my (Swiss-made) Bosch drill.

Here, slotted screws are present in some older furniture and tools. And to drive a Posidriv screw one should really use a Posidriv driver, as a Phillips will cam out (Phillips were designed to cam out, to limit torque in assembly). Most hardware stores here still stock mostly slotted and Phillips. So Phillips gets a lot of use. So I don't think that Phillips/slotted is so weird. If you are installing curtain rods in you house, do you really use a Torx?

I think slotted/Phillips is less surprising than would be a Frearson/Mortorq combo bit. Maybe in Canada one would get a Robertson/BNAE combo.

Seriously, though, as I looked through the Apex catalog I was overwhelmed with the choices. Definitely a case were too many choices causes paralysis. Phillips ACR? Phillips ACR II Plus? Which size Torx? For that matter, which size slots and Phillips? I think Cooper Tools is really, really missing an opportunity here. They should have standards such as Fabricator's, Machinist's, Mechanics', and Millwright's bundles. I think that they'd increase sales by eliminating folks being overwhelmed by the number of choices. Dumbest thing it the world is trying to get just a few more driven screws out of a used-up driver bit. It's a matter of some skill to hold the drill driver on axis consistantly. When the driver bit slips off-axis the force concentrations lead to distortions of tiny cotact areas causing it to lose fit in the screw's driving recess leading to "cam-out".

Driver bits don't last long anyway. The forces on the driving features are enormous and you can expect failure sooner or later - 100 to 500 screws depending on severity of use. If the driver spims once the screw head's driving recess has been damaged. Try to finish driving the screw and chances are a couple more spins wil damage screw head is so (it looks looks like a bomb crater. It may be impossible to drive or remove it with a new driver bit. It's a judgement call, but generally after a cam-out I've found it advisable to replace the driver bit AND the screw.

Once the driver starts to cam-out it's time to change the driver. No driver, no matter what brand, material or miracle of heat-treatment, can tolerate off-axis driving. When the driver bit cams out, spins out, buzzes, whatever you may call it, it's damaged, used up, toast, can never be economically used further. Cramped, awkward, just plain miserable places to drive screws are a fact of life that make precision on-axis drives nearly impossible. So if the driver bit fails early, it aint the quality of the driver, it may be ergonomics - or - even the quality of the user. Arbitrarily blaming short driver bit life on "quality" is a dumb ego game called blame the other guy. Man up, admit you sometimes err, toss the driver bit and replace it with a new fresh one.

Yes it pays to seek quality but spending 5x the money for 10% better bit life is false economy for consumable tooling. If you buy one driver bit buy a dozen. Keep an assortment with you as you work your projects. That way a new driver bit is handy when the one in use poops out. If new a bit is handy you won't be tempted to get a couple more screws out of the used-up one.

... If the driver spims once the screw head's driving recess has been damaged. Replace the driver bit AND the screw.

Once the driver starts to cam-out it's time to change the driver. No driver, no matter what brand, material or miracle of heat-treatment, can tolerate off-axis driving. When the driver bit cams out, spins out, buzzes, whatever you may call it, it's damaged, used up, toast, can never be economically used further.
......Keep an assortment with you as you work your projects. That way a new driver bit is handy when the one in use poops out. If new a bit is handy you won't be tempted to get a couple more screws out of the failed one.

Big +1 on the 'limited clearance'-type narrow-nosed #2 PH bits. They sit deep in the screw head and won't 'cam out' near as easily as broader points. MSTB. I buy 'em in 10-packs at Menards or other home centers for <$10. (25-packs now?) They aren't up to hammer drilling and can shatter when a panhead bottoms out against metal, but nuthin' I've seen outlasts them in general use.

VA Ice Bit Drywall:
Vermont American 25 Count 1" Ice Bit #2 Phillips Drywall Insert Bit - Tools - Power Tool Accessories - Drill Bits

Example: My brother & I hung 23 sections of stockade fence to existing posts and made up two 4' gates (lotta 3 1/2" screws into posts) using one bit and bunged up only 1 or 2 screws the whole time. There was enough life left to drywall the ceiling of a 15'x 25' family room before the extension's magnet let 'er fall out and disappear. (OMG, another ~$.80 down the drain. ) Wera - Wiha only for me. Its not much more and it gets a hell of a lot more than 10% extra life that forest quotes. Mind you, it does take some operator skill to see the real benefits, good drill, good bit and good fixings and its very easy to keep it in dead perfect alignment, set the clutch and use the throttle and things will last a long time.

Key is making sure you have the right bit either Philips or pozidrive and that it fits the screws well!

IMHO though good bits realy show through when it comes to removing stuff others put up, When the heads are half chewed, paying 5x the cost for the bits can pay back in just a few screws removed easily!