The Ultimate Buyer's Guide for Purchasing silver plated yarns

According to Wikipedia, yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for use in the yarn arts. But to me, yarn is LIFE! The more you know about your yarn and what goes into it, the better equipped you are to buy and use it. In this guide, you’ll learn the basic characteristics of the most common yarn fiber types on the market, plus how to take care of them and their most suitable projects.

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What is Yarn Fiber?

A maker’s motivation to use one yarn over another is often influenced by several factors, including price, access, allergies, suitability to the project, and personal preference among other things. The yarn fiber, or material makeup of the yarn, plays a key role in that decision, considering that fiber content impacts the performance and care of the finished piece.

Yarn Fiber Types

Yarn fibers fall into three main categories: Animal Fibers, Plant Fibers, and Synthetic Fibers. Each group varies in price, usability, and care. How you block your projects will also depend heavily on which category the yarn comes from.

Animal fibers like wool, cashmere, and alpaca come from animals (sheep, goats, and alpacas, respectively). Plant fibers like cotton, linen, and bamboo are derived from plants. Synthetic fibers like rayon, acrylic, and nylon are man-made. Any combination of these yarns, either within types or between types, is called a blend. Blends are produced to capture the best qualities of each fiber within a unique yarn.

Type 1: Animal Fibers

Yarn produced from animal fiber starts with naturally-occurring materials. Often animals are expertly sheared to collect the material to make yarn. Animal fibers are known for their warmth and insulating properties but are avoided by vegan makers or those with certain allergies.

Wool

Wool is the most common yarn used in the fiber arts and is easily accessible in the larger market. There are many varieties of wool, all of which are derived from sheep. Variations in texture, care, and cost depend on the breed of sheep used to make the yarn. Wool can be used for nearly any project but is often preferred for warm, fitted sweaters, heavy heirloom blankets, and other prized garments and accessories.

Wool is highly praised for its flexibility and hardwearing nature. This animal-fiber has great stitch memory, meaning garments made in wool are more likely to keep their shape over time. Wool is often blended with other animal, plant, and synthetic fibers to enhance it’s positive qualities. For example, “sock yarn” is a blend of wool and nylon, with wool contributing softness and flexibility while nylon offers strength and enhanced durability.

Caring for handmade wool items labor intensive but easy – simply hand wash gently with mild detergent and lay the final piece in place to air dry. Hand washing is necessary as too much agitation can cause wool to felt. “Superwash” wool yarns are advertised as machine washable, but beware. Machine washing will still cause wear over time. If machine washing, place the piece in a garment bag before starting the cycle, and consider air dying instead of machine drying.

Pros:

• Warm and breathable
• Durable yet stretchy
• Versatile and easy care
• Available in a plethora of colors, blends, and varieties

Cons:

• May be itchy based on personal allergies
• Can be prone to pilling
• Cost varies greatly

Variations: There are many variations under the umbrella of wool. Take a look at these common wool variations.

• Merino Wool. Derived from Merino sheep, Merino wool is highly praised for it’s soft, smooth texture. Merino wool is popular for it’s texture and versatility, but is prone to pilling and comes at a higher pricepoint.
• Virgin Wool. This wool comes directly from the fleece of a sheep and does not include any recycled wool.
• Superwash Wool. This is wool that has been chemically or electronically treated to remove the outer layers of wool yarn. The resulting fiber is soft to the touch and machine-washable.

Alpaca

Alpaca is derived from the animal of the same name and has flame- and water-resistant properties. The finished yarn is soft and fine, while the smaller diameter and hollow thread of the fiber make this yarn even warmer than wool. Naturally warm and of a heavier weight, alpaca is made for luxurious garments and extra special accessories.

Alpaca yarn is highly sought after for its unbelievable softness and smooth texture. Its luxurious quality contributes to its higher price point and absence from most commercially available yarns. The lack of lanolin makes alpaca hypoallergenic and ideal for those with sensitive skin.

One major downside of alpaca is its tendency to stretch coupled with its lack of stitch memory. Counteract these negative attributes by being extra careful during the blocking and care processes. Spot clean when possible or hand wash very gently and lay flat to dry.

Pros:

• Unbelievable softness and a luxurious feel
• Hypoallergenic
• Durable and warm
• Blends well with other fibers to heighten the making experience

Cons:

• High pilling rate
• Is often very pricey
• Very stretchy with little to no stitch memory

Cashmere

Soft and warm with great drape, cashmere is considered one of the most luxurious fibers within the crochet world. It comes from the undercoat of “Kashmir” goats in South Asia. These goats only shed once per year and produce a very small amount of fiber. As such, cashmere is often blended with other animal fibers. Add a touch of elegance to your accessory collection with a pair of cashmere gloves or a hat.

Unlike many other yarns, cashmere actually gets softer with wear. It is also an incredible insulator, being even warmer than wool. On the downside, it is weaker than wool and prone to wear if friction is applied. It is also one of the most expensive fibers on this list. Avoid the high cost by looking for cashmere in blends – you’ll often find cashmere blended with merino wool, which is a personal favorite of mine.

Cashmere is a real princess when it comes to care. Most experts recommend dry cleaning cashmere garments. This is truly the safest route. To care for your pieces at home, spot clean when possible, and lightly steam block for a quick refresh.

Pros:

• Luxurious, soft, and drapey
• Gets softer with wear
• Highly insulating

Cons:

• Very expensive
• Weaker than other animal fibers
• Prone to pilling and high maintenance

Mohair

This fluffy yarn is seeing a resurgence and I’m 100% here for it. Mohair is derived from Angora goats (not to be confused with Angora rabbits!). Used on its own or held double with another yarn, mohair adds an interesting level of texture and warmth. Add a strand of mohair to handmade sweaters or winter accessories to bring a touch of whimsy to everyday items.

Though light and stringy, mohair is praised for its warmth and breathability. It also pairs well with other yarns and is often held double throughout a project. You can hold mohair on its own or with multiple strands of mohair for a deeper, hazy look. The biggest gripes crocheters have with mohair is that it is difficult to undo your stitches, it can be irritating to those with sensitive skin (even if you don’t otherwise have fiber allergies), and the fuzzy fiber can make it hard to see your stitches.

Care for mohair much like any other animal fiber – hand wash with mild detergent and let air dry. Mohair is especially feltable – the fibers will felt together with too much agitation. Never rub mohair during the blocking or washing process. Instead, gently dunk the piece into the water to loosen dirt and oil. Lay flat, stretch into place, and let it air dry.

Pros:

• Many gorgeous colors
• Plays well with other fibers in a blend or held double
• Fluffy and warm
• Strong and absorbent

Cons:

• On the expensive side compared to other yarns
• Can be especially irritating to the skin
• Loose fibers can get caught in hair and beards

Type 2: Plant Fibers

While the warming properties of animal fibers make them ideal for cold weather, crocheters can’t wait to reach for breathable, lightweight plant fibers in the summertime. Plant fibers require some processing to turn raw materials into yarn. While plant fibers share commone qualities like moisture-wicking and easy care, they also share some negative traits, like heaviness and inelasticity.

Cotton

Evidence of cotton in handknitting dates back to before the 12th century. Used for everything from clothing to socks and everyone’s favorite washcloth, cotton is one the most versatile fibers we have access to. Unlike many woolen yarns, cotton is typically quite smooth, contributing to its stellar stitch definition. Beginner crocheters enjoy working with cotton for its flexibility and ease of seeing stitches.

There’s a lot to love about cotton as a yarn. It is relatively inexpensive and accessible both in stores and online. It is also incredibly strong, making it a great choice for projects that need a sturdy touch. The biggest downside of cotton is its inelasticity and poor stitch memory. Though not prone to stretching on its own, overly stretched cotton will hold its new shape and is not likely to bounce back.

When it comes to care, it doesn’t get much easier than cotton. Toss handmade blankets, cloths, rugs, and even clothing into the machine for washing and drying. If you’re concerned about your project stretching during the cycle, pop it into a garment bag first.

Pros:

• Lightweight and breathable
• Won’t irritate allergies or sensitive skin
• Low cost and easy to find in hundreds of colors
• Blends well with animal, plant, and synthetic fibers

Cons:

• Low stitch memory
• Can be prone to pilling
• Some tendency to split when crocheting

Variations: There are a few variations of cotton available on the market. Keep your eyes peeled for these different types.

• American Cotton. The most common type of cotton found on the American market. This yarn has a short staple length, causing it to be rougher and more prone to pilling compared to other cottons.
• Pima Cotton. This middle-of-the-road cotton type is softer than American cotton and is often advertised as a luxury yarn fiber.
• Egyptian Cotton. This is the softest and most expensive of the common cotton yarn types. It has the longest staple length and is the least prone to pilling.
• Mercerized Cotton. These cotton yarns are treated to include a coating that reduces pilling, aids in the dye process, and adds a subtle sheen to the yarn.

Linen

Derived from the flax plant, linen’s claims to fame are its durability and moisture absorption. Here’s a fun fact about linen – it’s even stronger than cotton, only second in natural-fiber strength to silk. Linen yarn produces a natural wax coating, adding a light sheen to finished projects. Often combined with other fibers, linen is suitable for warm-weather wearables and home decor projects.

If you’re looking for the best fiber to crochet into summer garments, linen is for you. Linen has thermo-regulating properties, allowing you to stay cool by absorbing moisture and wicking it away from your body. Linen also has the superpower of being even stronger when wet, allowing it to be truly machine washable. And the cherry on top – linen gets even softer as you wash it! There are some downsides, though. Linen has little to no stretch, so it can be a pain to crochet with. Also, linen is pretty slippery to stitch, so go for a wood hook over aluminum.

Linen takes well to machine or hand washing. For the machine, wash with like colors in a normal load and dry on regular heat. Try removing your linen pieces from the dryer while still slightly damp and lay them flat for the remainder of the drying process.

Pros:

• Strong and lightweight
• Anti fungal and antibacterial
• Incredible drape
• Blends well with other plant fibers

Cons:

• Still emerging on the market – can be hard to find
• Gauge swatch is imperative – linen crochets much differently than it wears
• Some tendency to split when crocheting

Bamboo

Soft, sleek, and eco-friendly? YES! You can find all of these qualities in bamboo yarn. Bamboo yarn is made from bamboo grass that is distilled into cellulose and spun into a silky smooth yarn. The absence of animal fibers makes this a go-to option for vegan makers and those with allergies. Find this fiber blended with other natural or synthetic fibers for a lightweight yarn perfect for summer stitching.

Bamboo is best known for its softness, mimicking Pima cotton or Merino wool on a good day. It is also non-allergenic, making it a good option for baby items and gifts. It has great absorbing qualities and is considered highly sustainable. On the flipside, it’s not quite as strong as other animal fibers, and it can be expensive, so it is rarely found on its own in a yarn.

Due to its limited durability, consider hand washing items made from mainly bamboo yarn. Since most bamboo yarn is coupled with other fibers, pay close attention to the yarn label for appropriate care instructions.

Pros:

• Eco-friendly and sustainable
• Soft and lightweight, ideal for warm weather
• Won’t irritate allergies or sensitive skin

Cons:

• Can be expensive – look for it paired with other fibers
• Less durable than other animal fibers
• Still emerging on the market so it can be hard to find

Silk

Smooth, shiny, and strong, silk is arguably the most expensive yarn type of them all. Silks come from the cocoons of the silkworm. Only the best cocoons are harvested to make silk while the remaining cocoons are reused in the process of cultivating silkworms. Silk’s strength, warmth, and absorbency make it a stellar choice to add to lacy shawls, heirloom sweaters, and cherished accessories.

Items made in silk are best known for their impeccable stitch definition and signature sheen. Silk also has an unmatched drape, nearly folding in on itself while still in the skein. Silk’s lack of elasticity is its main drawback. To counteract this, reserve silk for graceful, lacey projects. Avoid anything too large or heavy, as this will severely stretch the silk and distort the pattern.

Silk items should be gently hand washed or, better yet, dry cleaned. Spot clean with a damp towel if possible. Be sure to store silk items securely as they may be susceptible to moths. Plastic vacuum seal bags are my favorite choice for storage.

Pros:

• Very soft and silky with a high sheen
• Strong stitch definition
• Lightweight but insulating when paired with other yarns

Cons:

• Quite expensive, even in a blend
• Highly prone to snagging and pilling
• Attracts moths

Variations: Not all silk yarns are the same. They vary by species and harvest technique, among other factors. Learn more about the different types of silk available in yarn.

• Mulberry Silk. Derived from a silkworm fed exclusively on mulberry leaves to produce the finest silk with the longest fibers and most pronounced shine.
• Tussah Silk. Silkworms who feed on oak or fruit tree leaves produce this silk, characterized by it’s shorter, stronger fiber.
• Silk Noil. No fiber goes to waste in the production of silk! After the long fibers are extracted, the leftover bumpy bits are paired with other yarns to lend a tweedy texture.

Type 3: Synthetic Fibers

The availability of synthetic fibers is ever-expanding in the yarn world. Synthetic fibers are made using chemical processes rather than naturally-occurring substances. While typically easier to find and care for, more makers are considering the environmental impact of synthetic yarns before purchase.

Acrylic

Acrylic yarn is the most popular synthetic fiber on the market, easily available on its own or combined with natural or other synthetic fibers. The process to make this yarn starts with a man-made source material that is melted down, then extruded through a spinneret with different-sized holes. The liquid then hardens into filament threads that are then spun into different yarns. Acrylic is generally very durable and easy to care for so it works well for many types of projects as well as learning to crochet.

Both warm and strong, acrylic gives you the best aspects of wool while still being low cost and easy to find. It’s also machine washable, with some brands getting softer as you wash them. Some common downsides of acrylic yarn are its lack of absorbency and breathability.

Caring for acrylic yarn is the easiest among the fibers we’re covering today. Most acrylic yarns can be machine washed along with the rest of your clothing. If you want to take additional care with your items, wash on a gentle cycle followed by a low-temp dry. Acrylic drys especially fast, so laying flat to dry might be faster and saves energy.

Pros:

• Inexpensive and easy to find
• Great choice for learning to crochet
• Machine washable and dryable
• Won’t irritate your allergies

Cons:

• Less breathable compared to other fibers
• Fibers can melt at high heat (always dry on medium to low setting)
• Holds greasy stains and odors more than natural fibers

Nylon

Also called polyamide, nylon is the original DuPont brand name for this pre-World War II synthetic fiber. Nylon fiber is often added to other yarns to enhance its signature strength, elasticity, and sheen. Have you ever heard the term “sock yarn”? This typically refers to a wool yarn that is spun with a small amount of nylon, making it more durable in the use of socks. You’ll also find nylon in novelty yarns, adding interest and shine to yarn store shelves.

Nylon’s biggest attribute is its strength – it is widely considered the strongest textile fiber on the market. Besides that, it is lightweight, durable, and elastic. It is also easy care, making it especially useful in baby items. Keep in mind that nylon is heat sensitive and will easily melt if it comes in contact with irons or flames. It can also be a bit scratchy in yarns made from 100% nylon.

Machine washing is your best bet when caring for items made with nylon-based yarns. You can also put pieces in the dryer – just stick to a low heat setting. If the nylong is blended with another fiber, pay close attention to the care instructions on the label.

Pros:

• Blends well with plant, animal, and other synthetic fibers
• Easy care and machine washable
• Strong and durable

Cons:

• Very heat sensitive
• Chemically processed and not typically considered sustainable
• Can be scratchy – look for yarns with a nylon blend if planning to wear near the skin

Rayon

Rayon is categorized as a biosynthetic fiber, which involves putting plant-based source materials through heavy processing to turn cellulose fibers into usable yarn. Tweaks and adjustments are made in the manufacturing process to produce wildly different results, allowing rayon and it’s derivities to be incredibly versatile. Rayon and other biosynthetic are typically combined with other fibers to lend a smooth texture and breathability.

The qualities of rayon vary wildly based on processing, but you will find a few characteristics across the board. Rayon was originally produced as a less-expensive alternative to silk, so you are likely to find a silky quality in all rayon yarns. Rayon also has cooling properties and is efficient at directing heat away from the body. Conversely, rayon lacks elasticity and can be incredibly slippery to crochet with.

All rayon yarns are generally easy care, but be sure to check the label. When in doubt, hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cycle and allow the piece to air dry.

Pros:

Contact us to discuss your requirements of silver plated yarns. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

• Light sheen and smooth feel
• Affordable alternative to silk
• Blends seamlessly with animal and plant fibers, as well as other synthetics

Cons:

• Prone to stretching and may lose shape
• Fiber becomes very delicate when wet
• Chemically processed and generally not considered eco-friendly

Variations: Most biosynthetic yarns use the same process but differ based on the source material. Look for these names when considering the fibers in your yarn.

• Viscose. Derived from wood pulp, this fiber can be made from any number of materials like beech, pine, bamboo, and even sugarcane.
• Tencel / Lyocell. Considered more eco-friendly than traditional rayon, Tencel (which is the brand name for Lyocell) is more absorbent than the original and usually adds high shine to a yarn.
• Modal. This form of rayon comes specifically from beech trees. It is categorized as being absorbent and gained popularity as a good fiber for activewear.

This post shares just the tip of the yarn fiber iceberg. We haven’t even talked about hemp, camel, microfiber, or the dozens of other yarn types you’ll find on the market.

The best way to better understand yarn fiber is to use it. Buy it, crochet a swatch, and care for it as instructed on the label. Then make a note of how the material performs and feels, and your personal preferences for use. Refer to your notes as you choose yarn or select yarn substitutes for your favorite patterns.

Learn Even More!

Choosing the correct thread for your project starts with knowing the basic properties of thread and the options available. It can be overwhelming when you realize how many different types of thread are out there. The trick to thread selection is to choose the correct weight/thickness, fiber, and finish for your project. Generally speaking, All-Purpose Polyester thread works well for most general sewing projects. However, there are times when you may need to or may want to experiment with different types of thread.

We know it's confusing, which is why we’ve created The Ultimate Thread Reference Guide. It's the last thread reference you'll ever need. We hope this helps and that you can continue to use this article as a reference throughout your sewing journey.

Let's get started.

Thread is either animal-based, plant-based, synthetic, or a combination of those. In its simplest form, thread consists of two or more plies of "yarn" twisted together. It can either remain "soft" (untreated) or be treated with a special finish to increase its performance and appearance. A thread can be monofilament (basically, one long ply) or composed of multiple filaments (2 or more plies). Once it's spun, it's finished to accentuate project-specific features. It can be wax coated for shoemaking or silky smooth for low-lint quilting. It can even be finished with a vibrant, color-reflecting sheen, like quality embroidery thread.

Here are some of the terms you may come across:

Cord: When multiple "threads" are twisted together, they create a "corded thread". These are commonly described as 4-, 6-, and 9-ply thread. As you can imagine, a corded thread will be stronger and thicker. You commonly see this used in leatherwork, shoe-making, etc.

Corespun Thread: This type of thread is composed of a "core" of continuous filament polyester that is wrapped with either cotton or polyester yarn, like a cocoon. These combined threads provide qualities from both fibers, with the outer fiber providing the finished “look”. For instance, a polyester core with wrapped cotton has the strength of polyester, but the finished look of soft cotton. This creates a stronger, more durable thread. You commonly see this type of thread used in the construction of Jeans.

Ply: This is basically a strand of yarn. You'll often see threads described as 2-, 3-, and 4-ply. The above image depicts a 3-ply thread.

Twist Direction: The direction the thread is spun defines its twist. It can either be twisted in a 'Z' direction (left twist) or a 'S' direction (right twist). A 'Z' twist is suitable for single needle sewing machines. An 'S' twist thread isn't commonly used in home sewing machines.

Thread Types

All-Purpose Thread: Your go-to, does-it-all thread. You’ll use this thread about 95% of the time. It’s acceptable for both hand and machine sewing. It's compatible with nearly all fabric (lightweight to heavyweight). This thread is usually made of polyester or cotton. It's not as heavy/thick as "heavy-duty thread", nor as thin/light as embroidery thread. It's perfect for constructing seams, edge stitching, quilting...it does it all. You wouldn't want to use this thread with very fine, sheer fabric or very heavy denim or canvas. It's not suitable for projects that will withstand constant, direct sunlight or very high heat.

Clear Thread: Also called Monofilament and Continuous filament thread, this type of thread resembles a very fine fishing line and is useful when you want your stitches to be invisible. Depending on the weight, you'll see monofilament thread everywhere from quilting to upholstery. Its nylon base makes it strong and able to withstand tension. Use clear on light fabric and the "smokey" tinted monofilament thread on very dark fabric. We recommend using a thread net and a metallic needle when machine sewing with clear thread.

Embroidery Thread: This term includes machine embroidery and hand embroidery thread/floss. Embroidery thread is made from a variety of fibers, rayon being the most popular due to its high sheen and affordability. Though rayon is very popular, polyester embroidery thread has made large strides and is now stronger and more "colorfast" than rayon. You can also find embroidery thread made of cotton and silk. Rayon and silk embroidery thread works well for lightweight and medium-weight fabric, but a heavier fabric should be embroidered with polyester embroidery thread.

Embroidery Floss: Popular for hand embroidery and needlepoint, embroidery floss is either spun by hand or by machine into 6 strands. It's then divided to achieve the desired thickness (when the user is ready to embroider). Colors, numbering, and weights vary depending on the manufacturer. Pay close attention to the thread fiber make-up to determine how it will perform on your fabric. If you're unsure, go by the feel of the thread and trust your judgment.

Elastic Thread: This type of thread is great for gathering and shirring fabric due to its high stretch and rebound. The trick to creating the most stretch is to hover your steam iron over the sewn elastic thread. Doing this will dramatically shrink the thread. By shrinking the thread, you create more gathers while still maintaining elasticity. After this, you can wash and dry normally without continued shrinkage.

Heavy Duty Thread: This thread is engineered to withstand high stress and tension. It comes in a variety of weights and finishes depending on what it's meant to sew. For example, a heavy-duty outdoor thread will be thick and resistant to UV rays and may contain water-resistant properties (depending on the manufacturer). Consider heavy-duty thread when sewing heavyweight fabric (like canvas or duck cloth) that will encounter a lot of wear and tear. Camping gear, luggage, and sports equipment are examples of projects that benefit from a heavy-duty thread.

Industrial Thread: Industrial machines are built to sew daily at faster speeds and for long hours. They can handle everything from chiffon to stacks of leather. "Industrial thread" is really a 2-part term; it can either describe the spool size (like a 5 lbs spool) or convey strength not found in the home-sewing realm (like Kevlar Thread). The industrial thread market is also where you can find the strongest, most durable, and most long-lasting thread. So, the term "industrial thread" can also mean "industrial strength", like the strength needed to sew firefighter's jackets, rock-climbing gear, and parachutes.

Jean Thread: This thread is designed specifically for sewing denim and is a little bit thicker than All-Purpose thread. Many manufacturers use corespun thread comprised of a polyester core wrapped in cotton. We recommend using a Jean Needle and choosing classic gold or blue-grey hues. You'll also find denim thread that is slightly variegated to blend in nicely with denim fabric when darning.

Metallic Thread: Metallic thread is used to embroider and sew decorative topstitching. It isn't very strong and breaks easily, which is why it needs the "white glove" treatment. It's usually made with a polyester core and wrapped with slivers of metal foil/tinsel. Do not use with high heat or steam, as it will weaken and destroy the stitches. When used properly, metallic thread is beautiful and is always worth the extra effort. Before you sew metallic thread, read our tips and tricks for sewing metallic thread.

Quilting Thread: Generally, quilting thread is either cotton, polyester, or a blend of both. Quilting thread is mercerized for increased strength and color longevity. It's gassed to reduce lint and designed to smoothly pass through the fabric without damaging it. Generally, you can use machine quilting thread for hand quilting as well. Popular quilting thread brands are Aurifil and King Tut.

Serger Thread: Overlock machines use 2 or more spools of thread to both construct a seam and/or finish the raw edge. To prevent bulk, serger threads are generally a bit finer than traditional sewing machine threads. Even though the thread may be finer, the end seam is still strong, durable, and flexible because it's composed of multiple threads (usually 3 or 4). Because so much thread is used, serger thread is wound on large cones with about 2,000 to 3,000 yards of thread. It's essential to buy high-quality serger thread, as lint builds up much faster than on your home sewing machine.

Textured Filament Thread: If you've ever used "wooly nylon", then you've used textured filament thread. It's highly elastic and soft. The texture component makes it appear thick and "fluffy" (if that makes any sense). It's also soft and has a luxurious sheen. It's commonly used in overlock machines for rolled hems. The thread provides excellent coverage so that the entire raw edge is hidden.

Upholstery Thread: This thread is used when upholstering furniture and comes in a variety of fibers and weights. It's stronger and more durable than All-Purpose thread. Upholstery thread is available in cotton, nylon, polyester, and silk. Nylon is commonly used because it has some "give", meaning it won't break every time someone sits on your reupholstered sofa. Many upholstery enthusiasts recommend matching the upholstery thread fiber with your fabric fiber. For instance, it's best to use silk thread for silk upholstery fabric. Upholstery thread and Heavy Duty thread are not necessarily the same, although you may see them used interchangeably.

Variegated Thread: This term describes a type of dyeing. The fibers are dyed in intervals of alternating shades and colors along the entire length of the thread. It's available in a variety of fiber variations and adds a great bit of energy and interest to both decorative stitching and utility stitching.

Waxed Thread: This thread is usually multi-filament and is coated with wax to give it water-repelling qualities. This type of thread is often used in industrial projects, like shoe-making. You may have also heard wax thread referred to as Awl Thread.

Thread Fiber Make Up

Polyester: Polyester thread is synthetic-based and is entirely man-made. It's low maintenance, durable, long-lasting, and relatively inexpensive. These qualities make it perfect for All Purpose Thread. It doesn't absorb moisture well and is able to withstand moderate heat. It can easily be engineered to resemble cotton, silk, and even nylon. It doesn't shrink and can accommodate a small amount of "give" with good recovery. However, it's a bit more abrasive than cotton and silk (you wouldn't want to use it on expensive silk chiffon).

Cotton: Cotton is soft, warm, and very absorbent. Cotton thread is derived from the boll of a cotton plant. Each boll contains approximately 250,000 fibers. These fibers, or staples, range in length from short (less than 1 1/8 inches), long (1 1/8 to 1 1/4 inches), and extra-long (1 3/8 to 2 inches). The longer the staple, the less lint it produces. Extra Long Staple Egyptian Cotton thread is considered the gold standard.

Cotton thread is great for sewing other plant-based fabric, like linen, cotton, and rayon. As long as you are using mercerized cotton, it shouldn't shrink like your cotton fabric (unless exposed to very high heat). Because it's highly absorbent, it dyes wonderfully. However, a Cotton thread has no “give” and breaks under high tension, as such, it’s not recommended for stretch fabric.

Rayon: Rayon is plant-based and is known for its beautiful shine and vibrant colors. It's not as strong as polyester and the manufacturing process is pretty bad for the environment, but it's inexpensive and comes from a renewable resource (wood pulp). It's also highly absorbent and fade-resistant. Many people use rayon for their embroidering, topstitching, and monogramming. We don't recommend Rayon thread for seam construction because it's not as strong as polyester and becomes even weaker when wet.

Nylon: This synthetic thread is relatively inexpensive and easy to use. It has good elasticity and doesn't shrink. Nylon melts easily (only use low setting when ironing), especially if it isn't "bonded'. Bonded Nylon is very strong and comes in a variety of weights. However, it doesn't hold color well and will yellow over time when exposed to sunlight (unless specially finished with UV-resistant properties). Bonded nylon is great for utility-type projects, like tool belts, camping equipment, and sports gear. Pay special attention to how nylon is finished to determine its properties.

Silk: This thread is fine, flexible, and strong. It's gentle on delicate fabric because it's not abrasive, nor does it create visible holes. It holds dye well and is known for producing long-lasting, vibrant colors. Silk is washable, lint-free, and comes in a variety of weights. Being an animal-based fiber, it tends to work well with both silk and wool fabric. Silk is often used in fine tailoring, fine embroidery, sewing on buttons, and when finishing the edges of buttonholes.

Wool: This animal-based thread is created from the fleece of sheep and can be spun into fine, medium, and thick weights. Wool thread is commonly used during hand needlework, but specially designed, fine wool threads can be used in machines. It's especially useful when embroidering thicker fabric and when you want your design to have great texture. It also dyes well, creating deep, rich tones. Wool thread is soft, durable, and warm and works wonderfully in the construction of wool clothing and blankets. However, a high-quality wool thread is expensive. Wool will wick away moisture, but once it's saturated, it loses much of its strength.

Thread Finishes

After the thread has been spun, it needs to be given a "finish". The purpose of a "finishing" thread is both practical and decorative. By finishing the thread, it's given protective properties, allowing it to better withstand heat, water, and tension. In addition, many finishes make it easier to pass the thread through the fabric and can create visual effects, such as a silky shine or a soft sheen.

Anti-wick: This finish helps the thread repel water. It prevents "weeping" seams and is resistant to mildew. It's also resistant to saltwater damage. You commonly see this thread used in sailing and other outdoor hobbies.

Bonded: Bonded thread has a special resin applied to create a tough, but smooth, protective casing. This is most often applied to nylon and polyester thread with multiple filaments, like corespun polyester and smooth multifilament thread.

Glazed: Thread is coated with wax, starch, and other chemicals to create a glossy, smooth finish. This process protects the thread from breakdown and damage, but it can also gum up your machine. Make sure to frequently clean your machine when using a thread with this type of finish.

Gassed: This type of finish uses high heat to reduce the amount of fuzz and lint created by the thread. This creates a smooth finish and improves performance.

Mercerized: This process coats the yarn, making it stronger and increases its luster. It's easier to dye and produces beautiful, rich colors. It's also resistant to mildew. However, it is less absorbent than an unmercerized thread. This process also preshrinks cotton thread.

Unmercerized (soft): The fibers are left untreated and remain in their natural form (relatively speaking, of course). An unmercerized thread is very absorbent, making it more ideal for towels, dishcloths, etc.

Fire Retardant: This thread is able to withstand extreme heat. The special coating is essential for firefighting gear and race car suits. It's even used in children's bedding and mattresses.

How Thread is Measured

There are many different ways in which thread is measured and categorized. You've probably heard of thread "weight", but have you also heard of "Tex"? Or seen 40/3 printed on the spool and wondered, "what does that mean?" It's confusing because different brands will use different measuring methods. Because there is such a lack of consistency and no agreed-upon "industry standard", thread companies often go by their own rules.

We'll touch base on the 5 common measurements. However, take all measurements with a grain of salt and use your own experience and judgment.

1.) Thread Weight: How many kilometers of 'x' thread is needed to equal 1 kilogram?

When dealing specifically with weight, the smaller the number, the heavier/thicker the weight. The higher the number, the lighter/finer the thread. So, a thread listed as 30wt is heavier than a thread listed as 50wt because it only takes 30 kilometers (of said thread) to reach 1 kilogram. Most all-purpose sewing machine thread is 40wt. It's important to note that this measurement is really only used in the US and, again, isn't 100% accurate, because not all companies actually follow the above formula. Yet, they still label the thread as 40wt. Long story short, some brands borrowed measurements from other brands, not realizing it was an entirely different measurement technique. Oops.

2.) Denier: How many grams do meters of 'x' thread weigh?

You may also see thread measured in Denier. For example, you may see a thread marked as Den 225. This number is saying that the weight of meters of 'x' thread is equal to 225 grams. The larger the number, the heavier/thicker the thread. The lower the number, the lighter/finer the thread. Most medium-weight thread is Denier 225.

3.) Tex: How many grams do meters of thread weigh?

This measurement is determined by how much meters of thread weighs in grams. For instance, if meters of thread weighs 25 grams, then the thread will be listed as Tex 25. The higher the number, the heavier/thicker the thread. The lower the number, the lighter/finer the thread. Generally, a medium-weight thread is between Tex 27 and Tex 35.

4.) The Number Standard:

The Number Standard is tricky, I'm still not sure how the numbering is determined. I do know that the lower the number, the thicker the thread. For instance, No. 50 is thicker than No. 100 thread. Make note that No. 100 is not the same as 100wt. It's like kilometers and miles. They're completely different forms of measurement.

5.) Composition Labeling:

You may have also seen thread measured as No. 50/2 or No. 30/3. This type of measurement is describing two different characteristics. The first number is meant to convey the thickness/heaviness via the Number Standard. The second value describes the number of plies (strands of yarn) used to create the thread. For instance, No. 50/2 means Number 50 thread composed of 3 plies. Again, this isn't an exact science. Some companies may use Denier weight or Tex weight in place of the Number Standard.

Now that you know how the thread is weighed, let's talk about how its strength is determined. There are 4 common methods of testing strength:

Tensile Strength: This is determined by how much force (in grams or kg) is needed to break the thread. A higher tensile strength would indicate a stronger thread because more weight is needed to break it.

Tenacity: This is determined by the maximum tensile force divided by linear density (say what?). The takeaway here is that you want the thread tenacity to match the fabric strength or slightly weaker. The exception is performance products. The thread should always be just as strong or stronger than the fabric.

Loop Strength: This is tested by looping a thread strand through a loop of the same thread and breaking it. This measurement indicates the brittleness of the thread and overall stitch strength.

Knot Strength: This term indicated how much load the thread can withstand when knotted before breaking.

Confused? We don't blame you. Half of this leaves us scratching our heads. At the end of the day, trust your sewing experience and use what you've learned from this guide to determine which thread to choose. We'll continue to update this as new types of thread are engineered, so be sure to bookmark this article and check back frequently. Happy sewing!

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